Spicule Skincare Has Been Hailed As “Liquid Microneedling” – But Does It Really Work?
The rise of spicule skincare comes, like many innovations before it, directly from South Korea. Often referred to as “liquid microneedling”, spicule skincare is a noninvasive at-home treatment that encourages the better absorption of the serums that follow and enhance the skin’s glow.
Vogue’s top spicule skincare at a glance:
From the clinic to your bathroom cabinet, spicules are microscopic needles, typically made from marine sponges, that are infused into skincare creams and serums to serve as delivery systems for large molecular ingredients like exosomes or peptides, which may not be able to penetrate the skin barrier. According to board-certified dermatologist, Dr Anetta Reszko, research suggests that less than 1 per cent of active ingredients in traditional skincare products can reach the deeper layers of the skin. Which is where spicules come in.
Celebrity facialist and brand founder, Sarah Chapman, explains how they work. “Spicules create tiny, temporary pathways in the upper layers of the skin, allowing active ingredients to penetrate more effectively, while also gently stimulating the skin’s natural renewal response. In high-quality formulations, spicules are typically bio-engineered or naturally derived – often from marine or freshwater sources – and carefully refined to ensure integrity, purity and safety.”
While you can’t see them, their presence is hugely impactful. But the spicule skincare boom has only just begun here in the UK, with brands increasingly harnessing the technology to rewrite radiance. Here is everything we know and the best formulas to shop so far.
In this article:
Best overall: VT Cosmetics Cica Reedle Shot 100
VT Cosmetics
Reedle Shot 100
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Leading the spicule skincare revolution, VT Cosmetics found viral acclaim on TikTok. Its popularity is down to a range of factors, from the ability to find the formula at multiple strength levels (ranging from 50 to 700) to the glow that follows its application. Unless you have very sensitive skin (and in this case, stick to 50), Reedle Shot 100 is a good introduction to ensure that you’ll get that prickly sensation, but it won’t feel uncomfortable. This serum promotes cellular turnover and encourages deeper penetration of the active ingredients included, as well as the ones that follow. There is cica, or centella asiatica, which works in tandem with propolis extract to help soothe and heal skin, while sodium hyaluronate and glycerin provide deep hydration. We like pairing this serum with other ultra-hydrating formulas to give skin a plump, cushy glow.
- Key ingredients: Centella asiatica extract, propolis extract, sodium hyaluronate
- Best for: Uneven texture and tone, dryness, and those who want to customise their treatment
Best with exosomes: Medicube One Day Exosome Shot 2000
Medicube
One Day Exosome Shot 2000
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: In this bestselling serum from hyped-about K-beauty brand Medicube, the spicules are coated with peptide-rich lacto exosomes, one of the emerging, most talked-about ingredients in regenerative aesthetics. Also contained within this supercharged combination are a mix of chemical exfoliants that exfoliate dead skin to leave skin smooth and bright. With regular use, you’ll see clearer skin and smaller-looking pores.
- Key ingredients: Niacinamide, lactobacillus-derived exosomes, betaine salicylate
- Best for: Blackheads and enlarged pores
Best with vegan PDRN: The Skinject Effect Essence
Yepoda
The Skinject Effect Essence
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Yepoda is defined by its harmony of clean ingredients and high performance. Its vegan essence, The Skinject Effect, was created to supercharge the skincare staples that follow its application. It is made up of vegan PDRN (not extracted from salmon DNA as is common), spicules and exosomes derived from kimchi that work in harmony with your routine to even skin texture and tone and support the skin barrier. It has a lightweight consistency, while remaining non-comedogenic. Use this after cleansing and toning and before actives.
- Key ingredients: Vegan PDRN, micro-spicules, kimchi-derived exosomes, rice bran water, hyaluronic acid, and phytocollagen
- Best for: Hydrating and repairing
Best with PDRN: Cosnori PDRN-Shot 675
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: This serum combines buzzy spicules with equally trendy PDRN, a DNA fragment derived from salmon sperm that boasts numerous benefits, including collagen synthesis, hyperpigmentation reduction, and amplified hydration. You get the most benefit from PDRN when it’s injected or applied to skin after microneedling; “liquid microneedling” courtesy of spicules is a clever way to max out the ingredient’s benefits at home. You also get glow-boosting niacinamide and moisturising panthenol in this lightweight, fast-absorbing serum, which leaves skin soft, not sticky.
- Key ingredients: Salmon-derived PDRN, niacinamide, panthenol
- Best for: Dull, dry, uneven skin
FAQs
What is the difference between spicules and microneedling?
While both spicule skincare and microneedling help active ingredients absorb more deeply into the skin, they’re quite different treatments. “Microneedling is a mechanical procedure that creates controlled punctures into the skin, inducing immediate wound-healing responses, such as increased collagen production,” says Dr Reszko.
According to Chapman, “Microneedling is a mechanical, in-clinic procedure that physically punctures the skin to create controlled micro-injuries, triggering a wound-healing response and collagen production.” Spicules work on a similar principle, she adds, but at different intensities.
“Spicules, by contrast, are topical, microscopic and far more subtle. Rather than puncturing the skin, they sit within the superficial layers, encouraging renewal and enhancing ingredient delivery without creating true injury. There’s no bleeding and no downtime – think of spicules as a skincare-led approach to micro-stimulation rather than a procedural one.”
While they can get deeper than most ingredients, they won’t stay embedded in your skin forever. Plant-based spicules tend to dissolve within hours of application, while marine-derived spicules will stick around a little longer – naturally breaking down or shedding over several days, says Dr Reszko.
Does spicules skin care actually work?
Currently, there’s limited data available demonstrating clear-cut efficacy of spicule skin care, says cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu. “A lot of the available products don’t come with any clinical testing, and their benefits are dependent on the actives that the spicules are paired with,” she explains. However, the science that is out there is promising. A study of crow’s-feet treated with two creams (one with just actives, and the other containing actives plus spicules) showed that spicules provided a statistically significant improvement in skin density. Another showed that spicules enhanced skin permeability and transdermal delivery of topical ingredients. “They address a fundamental limitation of topical skin care – the skin’s natural barrier,” says Dr Reszko. “By creating micro-channels in the epidermis, spicules enhance the bioavailability and penetration of active compounds such as peptides, retinoids, and antioxidants.”
Who should use spicule skincare? And who should avoid spicule-based products?
More universal than you may believe, Chapman highlights that “Spicule-based skincare is suitable for most skin types and can be especially beneficial for anyone looking to improve skin smoothness, firmness and overall radiance, or simply give their complexion a refined, revitalising boost”. As for who would get the best results, “It’s an excellent option for skin that feels a little dull, tired or less responsive, as spicules help enhance renewal and maximise the performance of active ingredients”.
Sensitive skin types may want to proceed with caution. Spicules break through the skin barrier, causing some irritation in even the most resilient complexions. Sensitive skin is characterised by a compromised stratum corneum, increasing the risk of irritation – so those with very sensitive skin may want to sit this trend out. “For sensitive skin types, any change to the skin barrier is typically not recommended,” says Fu. Patch testing is important, or Dr Reszko suggests seeking out spicule skincare products that also contain ingredients that have anti-inflammatory properties, like niacinamide or cica. The same is true for those during an active rosacea flare-ups or immediately post-procedure.
The frequency at which you use spicule skincare products is also crucial – and not well addressed on most product packaging, warns Fu. “Based on the available data and our experience using spicule products so far, we don’t believe this is a product that needs to be used every day or needs to be used in high concentrations,” she explains, adding that for best results, you’ll want to follow your spicule application with a solid moisturising regimen.
Are spicules dissolvable, biodegradable, or do they remain in the skin?
No concern necessary, “Spicules do not remain in the skin,” Chapman tell us. “They are designed to naturally break down as the skin renews itself. Their role is transient: they perform their delivery and micro-stimulation function, and are then safely shed through the skin’s normal exfoliation cycle.”
Are spicules safe for long-term or repeated use?
This is advanced skincare technology, Chapman stresses, so with that in mind, “Safety comes down to intelligent formulation and expertise”. She adds, “It’s essential that spicules are used at the correct size and concentration, within a well-balanced formulation. From a clinical perspective, the aim is micro-stimulation without stress – encouraging collagen activity and improved ingredient delivery while fully respecting the skin barrier. When those parameters are carefully controlled, spicules can be used safely and effectively as part of a regular skincare routine.”
Which active ingredients benefit most from spicule delivery systems?
“Spicule delivery is most effective when paired with ingredients that support collagen activity, skin renewal and deep hydration,” the expert facialist reveals. “That’s why I focused on combining spicules with collagen-supporting actives and barrier-replenishing ingredients – they respond particularly well to enhanced delivery, while also helping the skin recover and strengthen.”