Luke Hersheson On How To Get Beachy Waves
A common mistake that he notices is the order in which most people style their hair. “People spend a lot of time on the underneath, and by the time they get to the top, they’re so over it they can’t be bothered, and you end up with all this movement underneath and then nothing on the top.” For this reason, he starts with the top and boosts the underneath if and when needed.
Hersheson likes to mix up his curling process using a range of tools. “I like using the flat iron on the sides and back and then the curling iron for the face-framing pieces to ensure that it doesn’t all look too samey or too manufactured.”
For his effortless beach waves, Hersheson uses the straightener in a different way than how I’ve curled my hair since my early teens. Instead of twisting the tool 180 or 360 degrees and pulling down the hair, he simply places the lengths between the iron and uses it to bend the hair, lifting as he goes for volume. He explains the process: “So I like to take a fairly chunky piece of hair – everyone’s is a little bit different, depending on how thick your hair is. I bend this way and that, alternating it all the way down, and you get a nice, gentle wave.” He stresses that my previous method is not totally redundant. “If you want something to look really believable and natural, it’s good to mix the technique. That way, the whole thing looks more like it hasn’t been touched by the hand of a hairdresser.”
For coarser hair, he recommends first using the iron to smooth the locks. He compares the process to my fine locks. “Whereas I’ve been quite gentle, you might need to press it in longer with coarser hair. Use more tension to pull some of the frizz away and leave that heat on a little bit longer – but ultimately it’s the same technique.” The same is true with coily locks. He says, “You probably need to blow it out first. And I think the best way of doing that is wet, using your hands like a comb, so pulling out all the curl and then gently running it through with a round brush, so you almost create a fairly smooth, straight-ish base before you then put the texture back in.
Using a curling wand is ideal for the front of your hair especially, the hairstylist tells me. “I like to take a large, chunky tong, and curl the front bits away from your face. You want to get some nice movement that frames your face.” He stresses starting an inch or two away from the root, always placing the curling iron on the top of the hair, wrapping loosely and leaving out the ends – “the ends should always feel a little bit more fluid and a little more undone.”
The biggest mistake often made? “Using a curling iron that’s too small so you end up with a corkscrew, prom curl look.” To avoid this, invest in a barrel that’s 28 to 32mm (the one used by Hersheson in the tutorial is 32mm).
Hershesons The Multi-Tasker
Using a triple-barreled waver
“I love it because you get a really soft, ribbony, fairy-like soft wave,” Hersheson says of the triple-barrel attachment to his Multi-Tasker hair tool. “If you’ve got super long, one-length hair, this S-shape works beautifully.” He uses the soft wave creator over the top section to bring more definition and to give a hippie feel. “You start around the mid lengths, leave for a couple of second and the next place you clamp is literally where the last one finishes. Because it’s quite big and chunky, it doesn’t have to be super exact.”
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Perfect for styling a bob cut, this curler’s small size lends itself well to shorter hair. It’s also easy to travel with, leaving plenty of room in your suitcase for the rest of your essentials. Its appeal lies in the ionic-coated barrels, which smooth frizz as they style to keep your hair damage-free, shiny and sleek. “I’ve been looking for a tool that gives me a wavy-not-curly finish for years, and the Mermade waver ticks all the boxes. Easy to use and offering the perfect wave pattern, it’s ideal for giving natural-looking texture to my bob-length hair.” — Joy Montgomery, commerce editor
- Key Specs:
- Barrel type: ionic ceramic barrels
- Temperature: adjustable up to 226°C
- Cable length: 2.5m swivel cord
- Features: ionic barrels, temperature display
A heated thermal brush is a handy tool for refreshing bangs. “You roll the heat around it, and it gives height, a nice lift and smooths.” This goes for whether you have a full fringe or are looking to create a 70s-inspired sweep away from the face.
According to Hersheson, heatless curls work best for those with “coloured hair that grabs heat.” Otherwise, you may find that the styles lack lasting power, especially those with “long, one-length hair that doesn’t have any layers or shape. It just tends to drop out quickly.”
Step four: Setting the style
To ensure the longevity of your style, “Spritz a little bit of Air Dry Spray over the top of the texture to lock it in and stop it from dropping so much.” It is formulated with sugar, reminiscent of the 80s punk era. “It’s like a surf spray without the salt and instead using a little bit of sugar, that gives you that hold without it feeling dry.” You can then apply a layer of hairspray – and the stylist says you can’t beat L’Oreal’s Elnett Hairspray.
For longevity, he recommends a silk pillowcase – “they cause a lot less friction with the hair” – as well as sleeping in a loose bun to maintain the movement, ideally a “silk scrunchie, nothing too tight.”
LilySilk
19 Momme Housewife Envelope Silk Pillowcase
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Lilysilk’s silk pillowcases come in a wide array of colours and sizes — from avocado green to classic navy — and can be personalised with monogramming for an extra-special touch. Clean, classic and breathable, they’re designed to help you sink into a truly restorative night’s sleep.
- Silk: 19 momme mulberry silk
- Colourways: 15
Pros
- Lovely finish
- Luxurious quality
- Range of colours
Cons
- Zipper closure not as premium as the rest of the construction