Everything You Should Know About Skin Purging, According To The Experts
Du-Harpur notes that while it’s not a fun experience, skin purging can, over time, “reflect the reduction of micro-comedones or acne precursors”, meaning your skin might be less acne-prone in the long run. Bunting agrees, noting that purging is “the skin’s way of resetting – uncomfortable in the short term, but often the gateway to long-term skin clarity”.
How does one distinguish skin purging from breakouts?
“Classic purging occurs only where you typically get breakouts, while irritation or new acne from an unsuitable product can appear anywhere, often as small, red, itchy bumps,” Bunting explains. If your skin feels sore, inflamed, or flaky all over, it’s more likely to be irritation or even a disrupted barrier, rather than purging. “Sometimes, both can happen together, which is why barrier support is crucial during this phase,” she says.
“Usually, with purging, the flare-up is in the same area of the skin as before, but more prominent,” Hextall adds. “If there are new areas also flaring or deeper cysts developing (especially if this is a new change), then it might signify a breakout.”
How to treat skin purging
If you notice signs of your skin barrier being damaged or compromised along with skin purging, prioritise soothing, calming, reparative ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formulation, says Ejikeme.
Scale back
“If purging becomes distressing, scale back your active ingredients to every other night until things settle,” Bunting says. “Combine anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide to soothe the skin, and always pair your actives with a barrier-repairing moisturiser.”
Her personal go-to combination consists of Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Serum – which balances a retinoid and azelaic acid with 5% niacinamide and 1% bakuchiol – and the Flawless Brightly Serum. Together, she says, they help clear pores while keeping skin calm and supported.
Be gentle
“It is important not to be aggressive when you see purging. It can be part of the process of getting the best results for your skin,” says Ejikeme. “When it does occur, treat the skin gently. Don’t try and pick or over-exfoliate away the papules, because that could actually make things worse.” Instead, take a look at the products you’re using and slow down any that exacerbate the feeling of dryness or tightness – like strong acids or potent retinoids.
Prioritise moisture
Then, concentrate on hydrating the skin with a gentle cleanser, such as CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser, along with a noncomedogenic moisturiser. Treatments such as LED light can also be very helpful to reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.
Can you prevent skin purging or skin reactions?
Yes, there are ways to prevent the dreaded skin purge. Du-Harpur recommends starting a treatment product slowly, or opting for a gentle option to begin with.
“For example, when introducing an exfoliant, you can use ‘short contact therapy’ rather than a leave-on liquid.” This means using a wash-off product, like a cleanser, and leaving it on your skin for a couple of minutes to get a higher rate of active ingredient penetration. Simple’s ‘Smooth+’ cleanser contains AHAs, which can gently exfoliate as a wash-off or short contact treatment.
