The Best Azelaic Acid Creams To Help Acne, Rosacea And Hyperpigmentation
The instinct to slather blemishes or dark spots with harsh, drying ingredients is a skincare narrative that dermatologists have been trying to change.
In theory, it makes sense. Spots may appear as a result of excess sebum production clogging pores – so remove the oil, remove the spots, right? Well, no. That’s far from the reality. What is more likely to happen is that harsh formulas will cause irritation, dryness, scabbing and remnant red marks that are far more stubborn to remove. Enter azelaic acid.
Featured in this article
Skinceuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster
Found naturally in wheat, barley and rye grains, azelaic acid is a well-kept secret ingredient deserving of its accumulating acclaim. The gentle exfoliant is an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, and so, when applied topically, can help combat acne, rosacea or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation – even during pregnancy and for those with sensitivities.
In this article:
- Jump to the product reviews
- What is azelaic acid and how does it work?
- What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
- Who should use azelaic acid?
- How often should you use azelaic acid?
- How long does it take to work?
- When should you apply?
- What should you layer with?
- Meet the expert
Shop Vogue’s top azelaic acid products below
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment 30ml
Skinceuticals
Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Best azelaic acid for: a daily moisturiser
A bestseller in the Skinceuticals collection, the brand has formulated this moisturiser to be used twice daily, both at morning and night, to treat the skin to the benefits of azelaic acid. No matter your skin type, be it sensitive or otherwise, this skin-smoothing treatment brings luminosity and even skin texture without irritation. Rather than a rich, nourishing cream, it sits unobtrusively on the complexion with a lightweight texture.
Medik8 Blemish SOS
Best azelaic acid for: a targeted spot treatment
Blemish-busting is what this targeted product from Medik8 is all about. Unlike many other spot treatments on the market, it is designed not to dry out your skin, but to support in the appearance of blemishes by reducing redness with a supercharged trio of acne-fighting favourite salicylic acid, skin barrier-protecting and oil-regulating niacinamide and the buzzy azelaic acid to remove bacteria. Blemish SOS fits seamlessly among both AM and PM routines, without pilling under makeup. Only a very small amount is needed.
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster
Best azelaic acid for: visible impact on acne and rosacea
As one of the first skincare brands to extol the benefits of azelaic acid, this Paula’s Choice formula has earned its place on your bathroom shelf. It combines the named ingredient with salicylic acid and plant extracts to combat the impact of sun damage like dark spots, aid in the healing of post-breakout scars, calm redness and boost radiance. Its non-scented formula can be applied to those with sensitive skin, and it works particularly well for those with acne or rosacea to leave the complexion smooth and soft. There is a reason it has been lauded as a skin saviour.
The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
The Inkey List
SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
Best azelaic acid for: minimal ingredients
There is a solid 10 per cent of azelaic acid contained within The Inkey List’s formula that spotlights the ingredient and keeps added extras to a minimum. This can allow you to customise the skincare cocktail that you apply to your skin, where only redness-camouflaging green colour particles and soothing allantoin are set alongside the star azelaic acid. If you have gone too harsh with other actives, this acts as a calming layer to restore the skin.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The Ordinary
Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Best azelaic acid for: results in a week
Apply The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, which has a cream-gel texture, for a concentrated infusion of the multitasking ingredient. The product supports the skin with antioxidant protection, while illuminating and giving a healthy glow. For rosacea and blemishes, it works quickly, calming redness and minimising the appearance of scars in around a week of usage.
Naturium Azelaic Acid 10%
Best azelaic acid for: pore minimising
In Naturium’s Azelaic Acid Serum, the brand has created a reviving, oil-regulating formula with niacinamide and coffee seed extract included alongside the ingredient from which the product gets its name. There is also vitamin C to double down on the brightening benefits. But what stands out most is the impact that it has on pores, minimising the appearance of the more noticeable and combating sebaceous filaments.
Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
Allies Of Skin
Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
Best azelaic acid for: blemish-prone, irritated skin
There is not just azelaic acid starring in this serum from Allies of Skin. The brand has packed kojic acid in the formula too, as well as retinol-alternative bakuchiol, liquorice and other powerhouse elements that make this a staple for blemish-prone, irritated skin. The azelaic works to fade scars and control sebum, while the kojic calms and brings antioxidant shielding. The rest of the ingredients supercharge these benefits to even out the skin tone, fight acne breakouts and minimise the appearance of pores. Plus, it remains ever gentle, lightweight, easily absorbed and non-greasy.
FAQs
What is azelaic acid and how does it work?
Dr Alexis Granite explains, “Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains such as barley and rye. In skincare, azelaic acid is often formulated synthetically and has a multitude of benefits – antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, skin-renewing and helps fade and prevent pigmentation.”
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Azealaic acid is associated with a whole host of benefits for blemish-prone skin. The dermatologist breaks it down:
- It calms redness and inflammation (ideal for rosacea and sensitive skin types)
- Helps reduce acne by accelerating skin cell turnover and minimising skin bacteria
- Brightens uneven skin tone and reduces hyperpigmentation, including post-inflammatory pigmentation.
- Improves skin texture and is generally well tolerated
Who should use azelaic acid?
One of the many reasons that azelaic acid has become so popular is that it is very well-tolerated by all. Slip it into your skincare routine to address concerns like acne, rosacea, redness, hyperpigmentation and to combat sensitivities.
How often should you use azelaic acid?
The dermatologist recommends to, “start with once daily application and increase to twice daily as tolerated.”
How long does it take to work?
According to Dr Granite, “you can expect to see visible improvement in 6 to 8 weeks for acne and redness, and 2 to 3 months for pigmentation.”
Use azealic acid as you would any other serum. The expert says, “after cleansing and before richer serums or lotions. If using once daily, evening is ideal.” Be sure to follow with moisturiser to combat potential dryness.
What should you layer with?
Azelaic acid layers well with other buzzy ingredients. Dr Grantie highlights retinol, niacinamide and vitamin C. She reveals, “Niacinamide pairs nicely with azelaic acid as both are calming and help support the skin barrier, while vitamin C can be used in the morning alongside azelaic acid in the evening.” As for retinol, the derm cautions that while it “can be combined with azelaic acid, I usually recommend alternating nights to minimise irritation, especially in sensitive or rosacea-prone patients”.