A Beginner’s Guide To The Japanese Skincare Routine

If your beauty cabinet is full of Korean skincare or you faithfully follow a 10-step K-beauty routine, it may or may not surprise you to learn that Japanese skincare has a similar methodology – just with its own distinct philosophy and hero ingredients. Think less trend, more tradition.

According to esthetician Emma Jinn, “Japanese skincare is all about prevention, consistency, and respecting your skin. No harsh steps, no rushing results, just solid basics done really, really well.” The goal is not instant transformation, but gradual, visible improvement over time.

Vogue’s favourite Japanese skincare products

Best sunscreen

Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50+ PA++++

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Best exfoliating powder

Tatcha The Rice Polish Foaming Enzyme Powder

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The structure of the J-beauty routine will feel familiar, but with a few key differences. Board-certified dermatologist Jane Yoo, MD, explains that hydration in Japanese skincare is built in layers rather than relying on a single, heavy product. “Lighter lotions and essences are applied first, followed by creams or emulsions,” she says; this allows the skin to stay deeply hydrated without feeling greasy or congested. Texture matters just as much as ingredients, with an emphasis on small, consistent steps that support skin health over the long term. The products themselves tend to be gentle, thoughtfully formulated, and often more affordable than you might expect, making them easy to incorporate without overhauling your entire routine.

Below, we break down the nine essential steps of a Japanese skincare routine, according to experts. As always, consider this a framework rather than a rule book. You can customise it based on your specific skin concerns or type and whether you’re getting ready for the day or winding down at night. Scroll to discover skincare brands and products used by Tokyo beauty buffs to inspire your ritual.

AM + PM Step 1: Oil Cleanser

Dr Yoo explains that the first step in a Japanese beauty routine is oil cleansing. “Oil cleansing is foundational because it removes oil-based impurities like sunscreen, make-up, excess sebum, and pollution without disrupting the skin barrier,” she explains. Rather than stripping the skin, Japanese skincare emphasises gentle yet thorough cleansing to preserve hydration. Many J-beauty cleansing oils also reflect centuries-old beauty practices, often incorporating traditional Japanese botanical oils that support softness, balance, and overall skin comfort (all while being superb make-up removers).

AM + PM Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser

After an oil cleanser lifts away sunscreen, make-up, and excess sebum, a water-based cleanser finishes the job by removing sweat, dirt, and environmental residue. Dr Yoo explains that double cleansing is a skincare cornerstone in Japan because it cleanses deeply without disrupting the skin barrier. “This method helps preserve moisture while allowing subsequent steps like toner and moisturiser to work more effectively,” she continues. Japanese water-based washes are typically creamy foam cleansers or gentle gels that feel soft on the skin and rinse clean without leaving it tight or dry.

Dr Yoo is a fan of this cream-to-foam cleanser from Tatcha, which features rice powder inspired by traditional Japanese beauty rituals that relied on rice water and rice bran for gentle cleansing and a smooth complexion. The formula also includes hyaluronic acid and botanical extracts to help retain moisture while cleansing, leaving skin soft and balanced rather than stripped.

Biweekly AM Step 3: Exfoliation

While exfoliation remains part of Japanese skincare, it’s approached far more gently and infrequently than in many Western routines. Instead, active ingredients are selected sparingly and with intention. Jinn explains that “Japanese skincare tends to lean away from frequent use of AHAs and BHAs, and when they are used, it’s typically at much lower concentrations than Western brands.” Instead, she prefers exfoliants formulated with rice bran for brightening, which gently buffs away dead skin while leaving the skin exceptionally smooth and comfortable. As for frequency, she recommends exfoliating just two to three times per week to maintain non-irritated, healthy skin.

Tatcha

The Rice Polish Foaming Enzyme Powder

Jinn loves this rice polish from Tatcha, noting that it’s “inspired by geishas washing with rice water.” While it’s gentle enough for regular use, she recommends using it sparingly to avoid overdoing it. The key is adding just a small amount of water so the powder transforms into a creamy foam, delivering a soft polish and healthy, luminous glow.

AM Step 4: Lotion

“In Japanese skincare, toner is referred to as lotion, and its primary role is hydration and skin conditioning, not exfoliation or stripping,” says Dr Yoo. These formulas are designed to replenish the water lost during cleansing, restoring comfort and softness immediately after washing. “Many Japanese brands explicitly contrast lotions with Western toners that often contain high levels of alcohol and are used for oil control or extra cleansing.”

AM Step 5: Essence

“Essence is viewed as a lightweight treatment layer that delivers hydration and skin conditioning without overwhelming the skin,” explains Dr Yoo. “This step helps refine skin texture and clarity over time, which aligns with the Japanese focus on gradual improvement and long-term skin health.” Designed for daily, consistent use, essence bridges the gap between hydration-focused steps like lotion to nourish your complexion and more targeted products such as serums or moisturisers.

AM + PM Step 6: Serum

Depending on your skin type and goals, face serums act as targeted support products in a Japanese skincare routine. “They are meant to address specific concerns such as dullness, dark spots, dehydration, or uneven texture while maintaining overall skin balance,” says Dr Yoo. Rather than relying on long ingredient lists, many Japanese serums focus on a smaller number of carefully selected actives, often sourced from natural ingredients like rice, sea botanicals, or green tea. “This approach reflects a broader cultural value placed on balance, simplicity, and refinement,” she explains. Serums are typically lightweight, allowing them to layer comfortably with other Japanese beauty products, such as essences and moisturisers.

AM + PM Step 7: Light Moisturiser

“Moisturiser is used to seal in hydration from earlier steps like lotion, essence, and serum, which are central to Japanese routines,” explains Dr Yoo. Moisturising, she adds, is essential for maintaining skin balance and a healthy barrier. “Many Japanese moisturisers are formulated to deeply hydrate without feeling greasy, making them comfortable for everyday use regardless of climate or skin type.” This emphasis on elegant, lightweight textures encourages consistent daily use, which is key for long-term hydration and barrier support.

AM + PM Step 8: Heavy Moisturiser

Because Japanese skincare prioritises prevention as much as correction, moisturisers are used daily not only for dry skin but also to protect against environmental stressors, dehydration, and early signs of ageing, even for balanced or combination skin types. Dr Yoo describes this as a “double moisturising” approach, where hydrating steps like lotion and essence provide the first layer of moisture, followed by a cream or richer moisturiser to seal everything in and minimise moisture loss without heaviness or congestion.

AM Step 9: Sunscreen

The best form of anti-ageing is staying loyal to your daily SPF application. UV exposure is viewed as a major contributor to fine lines, pigmentation, and barrier damage, which is why sunscreen is applied consistently year-round, explains Dr Yoo. “Daily sun protection is treated as an essential preventive skincare habit, not just something reserved for beach days or outdoor activities.” Japanese sunscreens are typically formulated to be lightweight, nonsticky, and comfortable enough for everyday wear. “They often offer broad-spectrum protection with both SPF and high PA ratings, making it easier for users to choose formulas that effectively defend against both UVB and UVA rays.”

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