How To Repair A Damaged Skin Barrier

Skin might also appear redder or darker than its original colour, plus itchiness is a common symptom. “The texture is likely to change, and feel bumpier and rough,” says Dr Sommerlad. Those with sensitive skin are more predisposed to suffering from an impaired skin barrier, so need to be extra vigilant about keeping it strong and healthy.

Which other factors affect our skin barrier?

“Many things can chip away at the barrier,” says Dr David Jack. “Over-exfoliation is a big culprit that is increasingly common with overuse of skincare,” he says. “Even everyday habits like washing in very hot water or neglecting daily SPF gradually erode its function.”

It’s also important to consider factors coming from within – stress, lack of sleep, hormonal shifts and poor nutrition can all weaken barrier resilience. Age is also a factor, says facialist Sarah Chapman. “As we get older, our skin slows down its own production of lipids, ceramides and hydrators, which are three key components that make up the skin barrier.”

How to repair your skin barrier

The first thing you should do is identify and eliminate any triggers that may be contributing to skin barrier damage. “Strip your skincare routine back and keep it simple,” suggests facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. “Think cleanser, moisturiser and SPF – remove any retinoids or acids, in particular.” When it comes to your cleanser, she recommends opting for a nourishing, calming and fragrance-free cleansing milk or cream, like iS Clinical’s Cream Cleanser, CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser or La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser. Stick to your simplified skincare routine and “try not to chop and change too much, because it takes weeks to get things under control”, says Dr Craythorne. “It can actually get worse before it gets better.”

Look for ceramide-rich moisturisers and incorporate hyaluronic acid into your routine to soothe and hydrate the skin, says Dr Sommerlad. “I recommend Vichy Mineral 89 as a good serum, followed by a comforting moisturiser,” she says. Dr Craythorne recommends La Roche-Posay’s Cicplast Baume B5, Cetaphil’s Rich Night Cream and SkinCeuticals’ Epidermal Repair – all of which will help restore the skin barrier to its former self.

“Seek out barrier-building ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide and fatty acids,” says Dr Marco Nicoloso, aesthetic doctor at Ouronyx. “They will all help improve dryness and strengthen the barrier.” To take down inflammation and help instigate the repair process, facialist Shane Cooper recommends trying red light therapy – you can use an at-home LED mask or visit a facialist. He combines it with lots of rich skincare formulas to help restore moisture.

Gently does it

It might sound obvious, but as well as paring back your skincare routine, it’s important to avoid anything that manually exfoliates the skin, like overly rough face cloths or scrubs. “You should also use lukewarm water to avoid further irritation,” says Dr Mahto, who adds that there’s no quick fix. “I would conservatively say that you can expect to see an improvement in the barrier in three to four weeks – for longer-term damage, it can take upwards of three months.”

Cut actives out…

… And then reintroduce them slowly – but only when skin is healthy again. “Reintroduce one active at a time (for example, use retinoids for a few weeks before adding a vitamin C or liquid exfoliator back in), but if you have chronic skin barrier dysfunction, you should always opt for more gentle actives,” says Dr Sommerlad. For example, you might swap retinol for a retinaldehyde (Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is a great option), because it is gentler on the skin. In terms of acids, seek out PHAs rather than AHAs. “And use fluid-based sunscreens as they require less rubbing in than creams – I love Vichy’s Capital Soleil and Garnier’s Ambre Solaire Anti-Pollution because they also contain niacinamide,” adds Dr Sommerlad.

How to prevent further damage

“Like everything in life, a healthy skin barrier is all about moderation and balance,” says Mackenzie Paterson. “Try to avoid any triggers that have caused it in the past, and don’t chop and change the products you’re using every five minutes.” Take a holistic approach to your routine and listen to your skin, especially when adding a new active ingredient, advises Chapman, who says it’s all about starting slow and allowing the skin time to adjust.

Protection is key, so use an antioxidant-rich serum or moisturiser and broad-spectrum SPF every morning to protect your barrier from UV, pollutants and other environmental aggressors, and prioritise sleep. That’s when the skin’s natural repairing and rebuilding processes peak, and without it, skin can suffer.