9 Best Hair Oils For Fuller, Healthier Hair Growth
Can oils actually help with hair growth?
Our experts agree that oils can be helpful for hair growth, especially if you are concerned with retaining long and healthy lengths. This is because most oils are rich in fatty acids that can help preserve the structure and strength of your strands. It’s wise not to expect miracles, though: Ohta tells us these kinds of oils will reduce breakage and hair fall, but “do not inherently support hair growth.”
Ball explains further, making a distinction between “active” and “occlusive” oils. In her words, essential oils (which are highly concentrated extracts containing bioactive plant compounds) can have a medicinal effect on the scalp. These include rosemary, peppermint and tea tree oil.
“In contrast, occlusive oils represent a category of relatively inert lipids that function primarily at the stratum corneum level of the scalp and along the hair shaft,” she reveals. “Their primary role is to form a hydrophobic barrier, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss and facilitating the retention of essential moisture within the hair fibre. This contributes to enhanced hair hydration, elasticity, and overall integrity.” It’s these oils (such as Jamaican black castor oil, jojoba and argan oil) that will help you keep strong and healthy ends that remain long. While oils can help with hair health, if you are dealing with unusual hair fall, it’s a good idea to see a doctor to get to the root of your hair loss.
What to look for in a hair growth oil
“Look for ingredients like saw palmetto, pumpkin seed, rosemary oil, biotin, and essential fatty acids,” says Sey, whose Tricho Restore formula contains many of those ingredients. “These target inflammation, improve circulation, and support follicle health.” Ball concurs, adding that pumpkin seed oil is recognised for its “DHT-blocking properties, a hormone linked to both male and female pattern baldness.” According to Reckendroff, it is equally important what’s not in a hair growth oil or serum formula. “Avoid ingredients which might create build-up and disrupt the scalp environment.”
Crucially, if you’re using essential oils, most experts recommend avoiding putting them directly on the scalp. Dr Majeed’s advice is to dilute any essential oils in a carrier oil like castor oil before use to reduce potential irritation. “It’s important to remember that essential oils can contain allergens, so they should be used with care. Ideally, choose products from reputable brands that offer ready-to-use formulations, which have passed required safety testing and are made within regulated concentration limits,” Ball reiterates.
How to apply oils for hair growth
“Use hair oil (ideally non-silicone based) once per week, before shampooing,” Ohta recommends. “Wrap oiled hair with a shower cap and introduce hot towels for deeper penetration. You can leave oils on for 20 minutes, or overnight, then rinse off.” Studies have shown that massaging hair during this process can help boost growth. If you’re using occlusive oils daily, Pratasiewicz believes it is best to avoid the scalp. “Since the scalp naturally produces oil, applying hair oil from mid-lengths to ends – rather than directly at the roots – helps maintain a fresh feel without weighing hair down or creating excess greasiness.” Less is more is a mantra worth abiding by here, since too much oil can clog hair follicles and hinder healthy growth.
Meet the experts
To separate fad from fiction, we drew on the expertise of several knowledgeable haircare professionals, from formulators to certified trichologists whose recommendations you can trust.